Seasonally check fluid level in reservoir. Check for leaks and proper operation. Drain and refill every hours or once a year. Check level occasionally during boating season. Lubricate seasonally. Pivot Housing Removal. Pivot Housing Disassembly. Pivot Housing Assembly.
Pivot Housing Installation. Gimbal Ring Removal. Gimbal Ring Disassembly. Gimbal Ring Assembly. Gimbal Ring Installation. Trim Sender Adjustment. Water Hose and Bellows Removal. Anode Replacement. Trim Sender Removal. Water Tube Removal. Hydraulic Lines and Manifold Removal. Steering, Gimbal Bearing and Seal Removal. Gimbal Housing Cleaning and Inspection. Hydraulic Lines and Manifold Installation.
Trim Sender Installation. Water Tube Installation. Water Hose Installation. U-joint and Exhaust Bellows Installation. Gimbal Housing Removal. Gimbal Housing Installation. Service Chart. When replacement parts are required, use genuine Volvo Penta or parts with equivalent characteristics including type, strength and material.
Some screw holes have special Held-Coil inserts that provide a threadlocking feature. Do not clean Heli-Coil holes with a thread tap.
This will damage the Heli-Coil inserts and force their replacement. OTC No. Remove the Sterndrive see Sterndrive Removal on page If the complete transom shield assembly is being rebuilt or replaced, remove engine following procedure in the Engine and Sterndrive Installation Manual. Wear safety glasses: Remove pivot pin E-clip and flat washer. Pull pivot pin out of cylinder, gimbal ring, and cylinder on opposite side.
Remove bushing from gimbal ring and replace if necessary. Remove cylinder and set aside to drain. Remove the ground wire and hydraulic lines from the remaining cylinder. Remove the remaining E-clip and washer form the pivot pin. Replace the gimbal rings bushings if theyre damaged, then slide the pivot pin through the cylinders and gimbal ring. Tighten line fittings to in. Remove the sterndrive following the procedure in Sterndrive Removal and Installation section in this manual.
Turn Sterndrive to port. Loosen anchor clamp screw and slide clamp to starboard disengaging the remote control shift cable. Remove shift cable from the pivot and gimbal housing. Remove the small and large seals. From inside of boat, pull shift cable out of the sleeve and connector assembly. Turn the gimbal to port and remove the two screws holding the trim sender. Do not attempt to pull out the sender as its leads are secured to the transom shield.
Wear safety glasses. Unscrew the nut securing the water hose nipple, and push the nipple through the housing as far as possible. Inspect the nylon friction washer on the pivot bosses. Peel them off and discard them if theyre damaged.
Remove and inspect the thrust washer underneath. Clean housing in solvent and dry thoroughly. Clean screw holes with solvent only. A thread tap would damage the Heli-Coil inserts and force their replacement.
O-ring Seal Groove - Check for sharp edges that would prevent O-ring sealing water passage. Mounting Studs - Look for damaged threads and looseness. Ground Wire - Check wire ends for frayed or loose connections.
Repair or replace all suspect components. Position the pivot housing in the gimbal ring. Guide the water tube nipple through the housing, and position the bellows behind their respective openings. Align one gimbal ring pivot pin hole with the hole in the pivot housing. Look inside to see if the thrust washer is still in position and not blocking the hole. Screw in the pivot pin until it seats, but do not tighten it at this time.
Align and install the other pivot pin. Tilt the housing up and down to see if it moves freely. Hold pivot housing to keep housing from over rotating and damaging bellows and water hose while tightening pivot screws. Pull the water tube through the pivot housing as far as it will go. Screw on the water nipple nut. If the nipple turns with the nut, or if the nipple end does not protrude through the nut when its seated, then the square nipple collar is not located properly behind the housing.
Loosen the nut and rotate the nipple to reposition it. Make sure the drain hole in the nipple faces down. Tighten the nut to in. Apply Volvo Penta Gasket Sealing Compound around the complete inner V-shaped lip of the pivot housing, to seal the U-joint bellows against water entry.
Pull the U-joint bellows through the opening and seat the lip in the groove. Bellows must seal the entire circular opening; any flat spot on the lip indicates the bellows has not engaged the V-groove. Pull top of exhaust bellows through the pivot housing. Tilt the pivot housing and push the bottom of exhaust bellows through the pivot housing seating the bellows channel around the lip of the pivot housing opening.
Any flat spot on the bellows indicates the bellows has not engaged the lip. Insert the retaining ring inside the bellows. Position the opening upward as shown for secure attachment. Install and adjust the trim, see Trim Sender Adjustment on.
Remove the three screws and lock washers holding the lower steering support bracket and pull the bracket off. If its tight, use a drift punch and mallet to tap on alternating sides of the bracket until its free. Remove the four locknuts and retaining plate from the top of the steering arm.
Unscrew the center steering arm bolt. Tighten the bolt to remove the steering arm. Be ready to catch the gimbal ring when the arm comes free. Insert the tool into either tilt bearing and drive it out. Remove the other tilt bearing in a similar manner. Lightly oil the outside of a new lower pivot bearing and place it in the bore. Lightly oil the outside of two new tilt bearings. Insert a bearing into the gimbal ring from the outside. Using a soft face hammer, seat bearing flush to 0.
Repeat procedure for installation of the other bearing. If bushing around upper steering post is damaged, it can be removed by splitting it down one side with a sharp tool. When replacing steering post bushing, check upper bearing inside gimbal housing to see if it also needs replacement. Install steering arm and center bolt. Tighten center bolt until bushing seats, then remove center bolt and steering arm.
From inside of boat, position steering arm over the thrust washer. When the gimbal ring is properly centered in the upper bearing, the gimbal studs must be flush or above the top of the steering arm when the bolt is finger tight.
If the studs are not at the position described, the upper bearing will be damaged when the center bolt is tightened. Place the washer on top of the steering arm. Install four new locknuts and tighten them to ft. Set the gimbal housing cover in place. Install four mounting screws and tighten them to in. Attach ground wire to steering arm inside transom. Pull hydraulic arm assembly over steering arm. Align holes and install large pin from top of arm. Install cotter pin. Spread prongs of cotter pin to secure large pin.
Slide nylon washer between gimbal ring and gimbal housing. Align pivot post hole of the gimbal ring, gimbal housing, and thrust washer, then slide pivot post assembly through the gimbal ring and gimbal housing until it is seated. Apply upward pressure to gimbal ring and support bracket. Use lower thrust washers as a gauge to determine how many will fit space between upper surface of support bracket and lower surface of gimbal ring.
The support bracket has a protruding lip on its upper surface where it fits over the pivot pin. When checking fit, washer insertion must be done at this point only, otherwise too many shims will be measured and installed.
These washers will preload gimbal ring. After determining number, add one extra, then install them in position. Use a minimum of one but no more than five washers to shim gimbal ring.
Attach the trim cylinder ground wires to the two forward screws,. Screw in all three mounting screws and tighten them to ft. Connect an ohm meter to the sending unit connector. Turn the sending unit control nut until the meter reads 11 1 ohm. With lower edge of pivot housing pushed in towards the gimbal housing, insert sending unit control nut into pivot bolt head. Install two trim sender mounting screws finger tight.
With the pivot housing pushed in towards the gimbal housing, check adjustment of sending unit between pins A and C of the sending unit connector. Rotate sending unit to obtain a 11 1 ohm reading on the meter, then tighten mounting screws to in.
Water Hose and Bellows Removal 1. Remove the two screws, lock washers, flat washers, and the anode. Clean the mounting surface, then install the new anode and the attaching hardware. Tighten the screws to ft. Disconnect rubber connector at wiring harness on engine. Record the position of the sending unit wires before removing.
The use of alcohol or equivalent will make socket installation into the rubber plug easier. Push the grommet out with a screwdriver. Remove the two screws from the water tube retainer. Pull the water tube and grommet out of the gimbal housing. If the grommet sticks, go to the outside of the transom and push it through. If the grommet needs to be replaced, slide it off the water tube.
It can be reused if undamaged. Unscrew all four lines and remove them from the manifold. Remove and discard the fitting O-rings. Removal of the grease extension tube may make the servicing of the starboard side lines easier. Clamp a vise grip pliers close to the bearing bore and rotate the tube to loosen it.
Pry against the plier head to force the tube out of the housing. Since the manifold is sealed by an O-ring, use a small drift to drive it out of the housing from the inside of the boat.
Pull the manifold and lines through the hole as far as possible. Tag one line for reference and note their direction of routing. Unscrew both lines, then discard the fitting O-rings. Remove the manifold O-ring and discard it. Do not remove the gimbal bearing or upper steering bearing unless they need to be replaced. Removal of the gimbal bearing and seal do not require disassembly of the transom shield. Access can be gained by going through the U-joint bellows on an assembled transom shield.
Spread the tool jaws between the bearing and inner seal, and expand them tightly behind the bearing. Remove and discard the bearing. Pull the inner seal out in a similar manner and discard it. Remove the thrust washer from around the top of the upper steering bearing.
Insert the driver into the installer and position the tool underneath the bearing as shown. Drive the bearing up and out of the bracket. Clean grease and sealer from bearing cavity, seal seat, and manifold cavity. Check inner bore diameter for scoring or discoloration that indicates a spinning bearing. Pivot Bearing - Inspect Teflon surface for wear or corrosion. Gimbal Bearing - Rollers must spin freely and hub must pivot in all directions; inner diameter must be free of corrosion.
Hydraulic Manifold - O-ring groove must be free of nicks and burrs; all fluid passages must be clear.
Hydraulic Lines - must be clear and fittings undamaged. Grease Fitting and Tube - must be unobstructed. Mounting Studs - must be tight and have no thread damage. Seal Grooves - Check for corrosion, burrs and damaged edges.
Anode - Check amount of deterioration. Clean parts in solvent and dry thoroughly. Some screw holes have special Heli-Coil inserts that provide a threadlocking feature. See your parts catalog. Drive the seal into the housing until it seats. To ensure adequate lubrication of the gimbal bearing, it must be correctly positioned prior to installation.
Rotate the outer band until its slot aligns with the lubrication hole. Scribe a reference mark at this point on the bearing case.
Oil the exterior of the bearing case. Place the bearing with the reference mark facing the extension tube opening, onto the installer. Drive the bearing into the housing until it seats. Lubricate the bearing with Wheel Bearing Grease through the grease fitting on the starboard side of the housing. Lightly oil the outside of the bearing. When positioned inside the steering arm cavity, the recessed side of the tool must face the bearing as shown.
Screw puller rod into the installer until its flush with the top of the installer. Hold the rod and tighten the nut until the bearing seats. Lubricate two new O-rings with hydraulic fluid and place them on the hydraulic line tips. Hold the manifold as shown and attach the lines. Make sure the tagged line goes in its proper location. Route both lines parallel and at the angle shown. Line routing is important otherwise manifold will be difficult or impossible to install.
Tighten the fittings to in. Tagged line must attach to the correct inlet. When properly connected, the lower manifold line will attach to the UP inlet on the pump valve body, and the upper manifold line will connect to the starboard inlet on the pump body. Feed the lines through the manifold opening, pulling them from inside the transom if necessary. Seat the manifold over its mounting stud.
Use a new locknut and tighten nut to in. Coat new O-rings with hydraulic fluid and place them on hydraulic lines. Attach the lower port line A to the manifold first, then the upper one. Attach the short starboard line B to the lower port of the manifold. Attach the long starboard line C to the upper port of the manifold. Route the lines together down the side of the housing. Install the clamp and screw, tighten the screw securely.
If the grease extension tube was removed, install it as follows: a. Remove the grease fitting from the tube. Apply Volvo Penta. Insert the tube through the outer wall of the housing. Spray the tapered end of the tube and housing hole with Loctite. Primer and allow to air dry. Wipe away any excess adhesive that may enter the bearing cavity or the end of the tube.
Install the grease fitting. Feed the wires through the opening in the rear of the gimbal housing, and out through the transom plate. Push the grommet into the hole until it seats. Leads must be free to move when drive unit steers, otherwise sender or wire will be damaged. If the grommet was discarded, face the tapered end of a new one toward the hooked end of the tube and slide it up against the flange. From inside the boat, insert the hooked end of the tube through the gimbal housing.
Hold the tube vertically, then install the two mounting screws and tighten them to in. Remove and discard the nipple O-ring. Clean all grease from the nipple making sure the drain hole is clear. If the nipple needs to be replaced, remove the clamp and pull it out of the hose. Install a new nipple and secure with a clamp. Tighten the clamp securely.
Slide it onto the nipple and position it in the groove closest to the square at the end of the fitting. Clean excess grease out of drain hole and drain groove. Do not place an O-ring in the drain hole groove. This would prevent water draining out during winterization, and could result in freeze damage. Slide a clamp onto the upper end of the hose.
Position the screw head so that it will be behind the port hydraulic lines as shown. Push the hose onto the water tube, then rotate it until the nipple points directly outward.
Slide the ground strap clip under the hose clamp. Clamps screw head must be behind hydraulic lines to prevent it contacting the pivot housing when drive is in a full tilt position.
Improper clamp position may limit tilt range, and damage clamp and hose. Check the position of the nipple drain hole. If its not facing down, loosen the nipple clamp and rotate nipple until the drain hole is facing down. Tighten clamp securely. Sealer is not required on the outside of the exhaust opening. Clamps screw position is important.
If not properly positioned, steering radius will be reduced because of gimbal ring contacting clamp head when turning. Place clamp on the small end of the U-joint bellows. There is an internal rib that must engage a corresponding groove around the openings surface.
Push the bellows on and engage the groove, then rotate the clamp until the screw fitting is in the one or two oclock position. Slide ground strap clip under hose clamp. The large end of the exhaust bellows has an internal rib similar to the U-joint bellows.
Place clamp on this end. Bellows must be positioned with exhaust relief cutout facing down. Push the bellows onto the exhaust tube until it engages the groove. Turn the clamp screw to the three oclock position. Slide ground strap clip under hose clamp and tighten the clamp securely. Gimbal Housing Removal Remove engine, lower exhaust pipe and steering cylinder following instructions in Stern Drive Engine Removal and installation section in the Engine Service Manual.
The transom shield assembly can be removed without complete disassembly. Since the gimbal housing is attached to the trim lines and pump, decide whether to disconnect trim lines at hydraulic manifold after inner transom plate is removed, or to unscrew trim pump from transom and feed pump and lines through cutout as gimbal housing is removed.
Remove the two screws and four nuts and washers securing the transom plate inside the boat. Lift the plate off the studs. Note that the hydraulic lines route above the uppermost port stud and through a relief in the inner transom plate. Remove the two remaining nuts, washers, and transom bearing plate.
Pull the gimbal housing off the transom. Slide it onto the connector and position it against the hex then coat the connector threads with sealer.
Install the sleeve and connector assembly, and use a crowfoot adapter to tighten the connector to ft. Apply 3M Scotch Grip Rubber Adhesive to the entire transom seal groove around the gimbal housing. Start at top and firmly push a new seal into the groove.
Also apply 3M Scotch Grip Rubber Adhesive to the seal ends and butt them together to form a watertight junction at the top of the gimbal housing. Thoroughly clean outer transom surface where gimbal housing seal makes contact.
If trim pump and lines are already attached to housing, insert them through transom cutout, then install gimbal housing. Do not use sealer between housing seal and transom, and do not attach washers or nuts at this time.
If trim lines were previously disconnected, attach them to the hydraulic manifold A. Note: Line from pump UP outlet must attach to lower manifold opening, otherwise trim system will not function properly. Route the lines above the alignment tube B and over the uppermost port stud C as shown. Position the two hydraulic lines above the uppermost port stud and mount the transom plate.
Place the transom bearing plate over the two bottom studs, flat side against transom. Install three flat washers and five new locknuts. Tighten nuts until they just contact plate and transom. Do not tighten nuts at this time. Position ground wire on transom shield stud. Install washer and locknut. Do not tighten nut at this time. Do not tighten the alignment screws at this time.
Tighten the six locknuts in a cross pattern, starting with the two center nuts. Tighten them to of ft. Bolt Steering Arm ft. Sealants, Lubricants and Adhesives. Gimbal Housing Disassembly. Anode and Sensor Housing Installation. Gimbal Housing and Transom Plate Removal. Shift Cable Sleeve Replacement. Transom and Exhaust Seal Replacement. Gimbal Housing and Transom Plate Installation. Torque Specifications. If the complete transom bracket assembly is being rebuilt or replaced, remove engine following procedure in the Installation Manual.
Center the pivot pin. Install both washers and E-clips. Tighten screws securely. Pivot Housing Removal Remove the sterndrive following the procedure in Sterndrive Removal and Installation section in this manual. Turn sterndrive to port. Do not attempt to pull out the sender as its leads are secured to the transom bracket.
Apply 3M Adhesive to the groove around the water passage, and install a new O-ring seal. Attach the ground wires with screw to the threaded hole on the port side of gimbal ring. Remove four Allen head screws and two anodes from the steering support bracket.
Move the anode and sensor housing out of the way. Note the position of the two ground straps. Remove the five screws and washers holding the steering support bracket and pull the bracket off. Remove four screws and the gimbal housing cover.
Remove and discard the two foam seals from the inside of the cover. Push down on the gimbal ring assembly to remove it from the gimbal housing. If it does not come out easily, lightly tap on the assembly with a rawhide mallet.
Finish removing the screw and remove the gimbal ring assembly from the gimbal housing. Remove and discard the O-ring around the upper steering post. Remove the support from the gimbal ring only if it needs to be replaced.
Remove the two large and two small screws securing the support to the gimbal ring. Position the support on top of the gimbal ring. Spray two large screws and two small screws with Loctite Primer and allow to air dry. Install and tighten screws to ft. Guide gimbal ring steering post up engaging steering arm. Seat the steering post into the steering arm by pushing up. The steering post is a slip fit with the steering arm. Install center screw finger tight.
Apply 3M Adhesive sealant to the groove around the steering cavity, and install a new sealing ring. Remove the protective back off two new foam rubber seals and place them over the holes in the gimbal housing cover. Install screws and washers and tighten them to ft. Align pivot post hole of the gimbal ring, gimbal housing, and thrust washer, then slide lower support bracket into position until it is seated. After determining number, add one extra, then install them in Attach the trim cylinder ground wires to the two middle screws and install them.
Screw in the remaining three remaining screws. Tighten all screws to ft. Install two trim sender mounting screws finger tight so that the sender may be adjusted. With the pivot housing pushed in towards the gimbal housing, check adjustment of sending unit between pins A and C. Remove the four screws and anodes. Disconnect the anode and sensor housing leads from the electronic control unit mounted on the inside transom.
Follow Steps 2 and 3 above to remove the leads from the gimbal housing. Hydraulic Lines and Manifold Removal Remove the two clamps that secure the lines to each side of the gimbal housing. Aircraft Aeroplanes Buses Golf Carts. My Cart 0 Cart. Skip to the end of the images gallery. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery. Add to Cart. Secure transaction. VPA 1 General Information. Add to cart. No Extra fees, No Expiry dates. All diagnostic and repair procedures are covered in great detail.
However, adequate data is given for the majority of do it your self mechanics and those performing repairs and maintenance procedures for Volvo Penta Stern Drive SX-M. Full service repair manual for Volvo Penta Stern Drive SX-M is a series of practical repair manuals and service manuals, is used by the mechanics around the world, covering repairs, service schedules, maintenance, wiring diagrams and diagnostics. Troubleshooting and electrical service procedures are combined with detailed wiring diagrams for ease of use.
Complete comes in format which can work under all PC based windows operating system and Mac also. All pages are printable. No need to pay for shipping and wait for the overpriced paper textbook or CD-ROM to arrive via snail mail.
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